Bhaji on the beach

At Miramar I finally met Vivek Shah the famous Gujju at the hostel. I met a few other IIT undergrads, his friends. At about 7.30 pm we decided to take walk on the beach. Then we saw a few Pav Bhaji stalls and promptly decided to have some Bhaji on the beach. It was cool. By 9.15 we decided to go back to the hostel.

Then we decided to check out the Miramar beach. There is this wonderful and quiet place just near the hostel on the beach that Vivek had discovered. At night the place looks hauntingly beautiful. You can sit here all night long and meditate. The waves come and kiss your feet. A lighthouse lights up the place every few minutes. It is silent and all you can hear is the sea quietly strumming some imaginary guitar. On the dark brooding horizon a few ships floated on to some heavenly destination.

It is in moments like these that you feel melancholy and euphoric at the same time. We sat there on the wet sand and as the white fizzling froth inched towards me I sat there and contemplated on the mistakes of the past and decided to come back to life!

Somehow Pink Floyd always has answers to everything and always come to your mind in moments of great joy or sorrow or just about anytime when you experience deep emotions.

I took a heavenly ride through our silence

I knew the moment had arrived

For killing the past and coming back to life

As the moonlight comes in from far away, various cruise boats with decks dazzling with brilliant, bright, gaudy lights crammed with people laughing, dancing and letting go, glide a few meters away from you. You can see and hear their joy and yet in some strange inexplicable way not share it. At about 10.00 pm the hostel doors close, so we scramble into the hostel and call it a day.

Anjuna flea market

Picture this- innumerable stalls lining the pathway, an assortment of gaudy colours that could intimidate a rainbow, vendors screaming, women in Rajasthani attire trying to catch the attention of the unsuspecting firang, trying to convince him that the lungi with ‘Om’ motifs could essentially be the most important feature of his India trip.As you soak in these visuals remind yourself of that visit to that vegetable market close to your home and remind yourself of the cacophony of sounds that surround you like an unsettling background score… Already smelling a bargain? Welcome to the world famous Anjuna flea market. It is held on Wednesdays at the Southern end of the beach amidst the coconut plantations. It starts at noon and goes on till sunset.

In India, this market provides cheap goodies and brings out the Goan spirit in hefty doses through their ambiance. Flea market is a translation of the French term marche aux puces, a name originally given to open- air markets in Paris. Literally means ‘market with fleas’ and generally flea connotes low rent or cheap.

The Anjuna flea market reminds us of the 60s character that made Goa famous. It came into existence with the hippies auctioning their belongings in a bid to spend some more time in the Paradise of Goa, all during the late 60’s. Since then it has only got better and bigger. So what did I buy in that market? Nothing! In spite of all the handicrafts, beach clothes, mirror work bags, European stuff, wooden crafts and carvings, beautiful wall hangings, musical instruments, bed covers, CDs with anything from Goa trance to Rock collectibles, kurtas, sarongs, artificial ornaments and T-shirts, all at the same place.

General advice: bargain like crazy if you plan to buy anything. Yeah I mean crazy. They quote just about any price that comes to their mind. A nice way of getting to and from the market is by boats. You get to avoid traffic snarls and if luck favors you might just get to see a few dolphins. Regular boat services can be availed from Baga. I left Anjuna for Miramar at about 5.30 p.m.

P.S.: Anjuna is not considered safe for swimming because of an unpredictable undertow, except near the Flea market end.

Anjuna- hippy haven

I didn’t stay too long at the beach; I was planning to reach that haven of hippies- Anjuna. The way to reach Anjuna beach from Miramar is a bit cumbersome if you plan to use public transport. First catch a bus to Panaji, from there to Mapusa and then to Anjuna. At Panaji bus stand I saw the bus going to Anjuna and another one parked next to it. That one was going off to Calangute. I sighted a lonely firang babe in the window seat in that one. Now that I think was my chance but I didn’t take it. Often in life we are faced with choices and it is often our fears that keep us away from doing incredible things. I mean I am not too sure if I would have ended up screwing the firang babe but at least I would have spent some interesting time roaming Calangute with her or at least would have made yet another friend. But I didn’t do anything. I took the bus to Anjuna instead.

It can get pretty boring at times traveling alone. So I did carry an Outlook Goa guide with me. It said the following things about Anjuna.

“It is undisputed king of Goa’s rave scene. They say everyone congregates here; from bums on the dole, from barely literate ravers to PhDs, eccentric millionaires. Anjuna can’t really be described too well. It has to be experienced, preferably on a full moon night at a beach hopping party. A shallow red laterite cliff borders the beach. To the right are terraced coconut plantations. Below, jagged laterite boulders alternate with little spits of sand. Azure water swirls and bubbles between the rocks. Anjuna beach is as beautiful as things can get.”

So with great hopes I reached the place. It was disappointing to say the least of things. Except for a few hippies in some of the restaurants there wasn’t much to rave about. The beach is beautiful and the view is breathtaking. Sample a few pics...

Goa!

Sawantwadi is quite modern and is very beautiful. From there I got on a bus to Panaji at 8.45 a.m. The bus entered Goa at Patradevi at about 9.25 a.m. As the bus trundled through the narrow streets on the way to Mapusa you can sight a lot of crucifixes. A few of them are really beautiful. As we go from Maharashtra to Goa, the change of sport seems conspicuous- cricket to football happens in a matter of kilometers.

I reached Panaji at about 10.30 a.m. You know you have touched Panaji when you get that peculiar smell of sea and salt. Its total bliss. From Panaji I left for Miramar as I had to first find accommodation at the Youth Hostel. I located the Hostel. It is right next to Mariott and faces the beach. It is beautiful and cheap. Rs.50 per night is amazing. Then I located a cyber café, sent a few mails and charged my ipod. At about 3.00 pm I decided to start checking out the sights around and also try and reach Anjuna. They have the Wednesday bazaar over there.

Miramar beach comprises a massive spread of sand west of Panaji, where the Mandovi River joins the sea. The area is referred to as the Marine drive of Goa and gets very crowded in the evening. The beach is one of the best in Goa. It is clean and nicely maintained. It is relatively quiet as compared to the noisy Calangute and Baga. There is this stretch near the Hostel that is very beautiful and you can sit here all alone in peace with no soul in sight and just the sea.

23rd May, 2007

They say virginity is not dignity but a lack of opportunity. Now if there is any place that is filled to the brim with opportunities for gratifying activities, then it is Goa.

Why do most people go to Goa?

1. to booze
2. to dope
3. to have sex
4. on a vacation as seen in Dil Chahta Hai.

Why was I in Goa? I might just say to have as much of point 3 as possible! {Mom I am just kidding all right!}Actually as I already mentioned in my post I was here to unwind, de-stress and contemplate life. I wanted to dip into the ‘ susegat’ Goan culture. I was here to relax and take things in a cool chilled way. Of course I could have been to the infinite other places in India to do that, but the lure of Goa was too seducing to stay away. Goa was a childhood dream. There is one more reason why I went to Goa. I have a thing for water or the sea. I don’t know why… but the sea tends to have a calming soothing influence on me.

So off I was to Goa at 6 am in true backpacker style. A black backpack lugged on my back with water-bottle, a Goa guidebook and other necessary stuff to roam Goa. From here on I was alone in my journey. I decided to take the Maharashtra state transport bus to Goa. I first took a bus to Sawantwadi. It was really hot in the S.T.

From what I actually saw of the Konkan region while passing through I can clearly claim one thing it is really developing at a frenzied pace. The Konkan Railway seems to have accelerated the growth. New technologies in farming can be seen on some farms dotting the road. Amidst all this development I hope that we don’t lose the scenic beauty and soul of the place.

The road that the bus took is scenic. It is often interspersed with such road signs as shown below:

· Control your nerves on curves

· Safety on road Safe tea at home

Now the last one nearly killed me. I was laughing my ass off on the window seat. It was really funny. It reminded me of Ameya.

Goan symphony

A lot of people are worried that my blog has stuck up in some rut. Well, it hasn't. The damn thing is that I had to format my PC. College has just begun and I am regularly attending lectures. Yeah thats true. Sad but true.

Soon enough I shall publish the Goa journey.

22nd May, 2007

Still in Konkan, Goa plans postponed for 1 day. Now this is one thing about backpacking. You tend to change plans like clothes and there is a certain uncertainty about things and plans.It is this absolute sense of freedom that makes backpacking fun. What one must have is a rough plan of travel. There are a hell lot of people who love to be organized and all when traveling. i dont happen to be one of those.
At Osargaon I played cricket after a long time. It rained here today. A slight drizzle but nevertheless the monsoon seems close by. The sad news is that the ipod’s charge is finally over. So without a computer I am going to have a less sonorous Goa unless I locate a decent cyber café up there. For the time being i have myself and my thoughts for company. No wonderful music to give me company.

Photos

shiva temple



i know i am committing a mistake by uploading so many pics up ...it creates competition between me and the pics .. and some people just browse through the pics and say to hell with the words... but cant help words are just those.. words... Images are generally a lot more powerful as compared to words...and even i cant be as good as nature ...

21st May,2007

Early morning alarm failed to wake me up! Grandma got seriously miffed as she missed the bus. She was planning to go to Bhiraonde. Now that’s where she grew up. Its some 30 kms away from the place we were right now.

We tried to get an auto but all efforts went down the drain. But the relentless spirit of the old woman wouldn’t be cowed down. She decided to start walking! And off she went in a huff. Repeated requests to stop were if no avail. Finally we gave up. We walked nearly 4 kms. The spirit of my grandma and more importantly her awe-inspiring fitness at so young {ahem!} an age was exemplary. Finally we managed to find a rickshaw.

At her home we visited a Shiva temple. Now I am not much of believer but sometimes one has to toe the line. As we were going towards the temple Abhay sighted a beautiful heron in one of the infinite fields that surrounded us. The picture that u will see is beautiful and when i actually took it, i never thought it would turn out to be this good. It kind of shows that some of the best things happen accidentally.Bhiraonde has some of the most stunning views of the Sahyadris.The whole greenery and blue skies and everything has a soothing effect on you. But we couldnt wait there for too long.

In the afternoon at 2 pm back at Varavade packed my bags and was off to Osargaon my dad’s home. From there I would be off to Goa. On the other hand Abhay and grandma were off to Bombay.Abhay was feeling really disappointed. He really wanted to come to Goa.But sometimes we tend to keep some things before others and so sacrifice on some wonderful things. But he has what they call a very determined personality. So he did go to Goa, but thats another story.

Vivek the benevolent Gujju had some great news. He had located a Youth hostel in Miramar near Panaji at 50 bucks per night. What a steal!

A view from the top

I feel that the photos of the last post deserve an entire post . So here they are..

20th May,2007 again

Evening came and a sudden feel descended over me! I felt that another longer walk would help me to figure out the trivialities and idiosyncrasies of life. So this time with the fellowship of cousins numbered 4 we set off in the pursuit of adventures. Trekking was what we had in mind. There are 2 hills at about a 3 km distance from our place. We decided to conquer them.

The ascent was not so steep; one again has to be careful of not stepping over innocuous looking rat holes harboring snakes. The climb took about 30 mins. At the top of the hill is a circular water tank. One can climb it and get a panoramic view of the entire region. The Sahyadris look magnificent from the top. Damn if only I had a handicam I would have shot a rock video at that place! The descent was a bit difficult especially with 3 of us wearing floaters and the kid sister wearing of all things wearable-heels!

Yet we managed somehow. We took yesterday’s route again and trudged home in the dark. After 5 kms the little one called out for mercy. She was feeling very thirsty.Somehow we located a shop selling Sprite and again a few divine truths were realized. Gymming helps. The trek was one big hit.

20th May,2007

In the morning you tend to notice one thing. The villagers wake up very early in the morn and seem to be up and working at about 6 a.m.
An important and glaring difference between the city and life here is the means of transport. If you miss a bus then the next one is only after an hour or so. Simply put a few minutes late then you can actually bunk college daily.

Rickshaws have made a quiet foray but again even then it’s really difficult to get one close to where you stay. The telephone then comes to the rescue. A few phone calls and you can have your very own dial-a-rick service. So we were off to the Kankavali town centre to check out the time table and make plans for the Goa trip.

I called up Vivek Shah who was already in Goa. He gave some earth shattering news. He wasn’t able to find cheap accommodation for himself. He was staying at an MTDC hotel at 500/ bucks per night. I realized that I would be bankrupt in Goa in 2 days. So I decided to put Goa plans on hold till better news followed.

Back at home an invitation for lunch at my aunt’s place I had to honor. So off I trundled through some thick shrubbery and reached her place. Oh! The fish cooked over there. The taste lingers. Prawns and Bombay duck fried was amazing, this was topped off with some wonderful curry. Somehow whenever I come to this aunt’s place I am reminded of Aunt Agatha from the Wooster family.

like the flowing river

At the river bed I pondered on a few lines by this amazing Brazilian poet Manuel Bandeira.
Sample these and ponder on:
Be like a flowing river,

silent in the night,

Be not afraid of the dark,

if there are stars in the sky, reflect them back,

if there are clouds in the sky,

Remember, clouds like the river are water,

so, gladly reflect them too,

in your own tranquil depths….”

19th May,2007 again

The folks at home were very worried about us. But we charted our course in a careless way, singing songs by Coldplay, Parikrama, Metallica, Strings, Euphoria, and Swades to our hearts content. All we had for light was tiny flashlight from that made-for-India phone 1100, crescent moon and the stars above for company. Somehow Coldplay’s lyrics seemed very germane...

Look at the stars,
Look how they shine for you,
And everything you do,
Yeah, they were all yellow.

The road does get eerie at times and at places far away from you can hear a few lilting tunes of Konkani folk songs. There are times when on the road being totally quiet helps. It brings with it a certain sense of tranquility and then you can turn your thoughts inward and contemplate life. So after that really long walk totaled at about 10 kms we reached home, hungry as wolves. Long walks such as these have a positive effect on the appetite and help to clear the head. I need to do this often.Sleep came quickly that night.

19th May,2007

The morning sun revealed the beauty of the Konkan landscape. Trees dot the entire road. The hilly terrain looks stunning. At 8.15 a.m. we reached Kankavali. With one last lingering glance at the gorgeous firangs whom I didn’t hit on, I got off the bus.Hope I see them in Goa!

At the beautiful home with a hyper-excited grandma in tow we reached and were accorded a warm welcome. There they laid out a sumptuous meal of fish curry rice and fried fish. Mouth watering stuff prepared deliciously. After the heavy meal I slept off!

At about 5 p.m. we decided to surrender ourselves to the beauty of the village. There is river that flows away gently through the place in summer and with the vicious force of an attacking snake in the monsoon. We decided to check it out. In summer it looks a poor shadow of its full gushing glorious self. It kind of reminded me of myself! Nevertheless it’s a beautiful place to be at, especially when its dusk and the night is about to set in. there I spotted a wonderful bird, looking regally over the water surface and casting a kingly glance over the landscape.

Getting back home was the fun part. We didn’t have torches. Home is about 5 kms away. All we have is the moonlight and the stars and of course a few vehicle headlights that vroom away to their destinies on the SH117. Now it can get a bit tricky on the road. The Konkan region has some of the deadliest reptiles found on earth. The Russell’s viper, the king cobra and many other deadly and poisonous snakes are found here. And generally they hunt at night for their prey. One accidental footstep on a coiled snake and you would be breathing your last.

18th May,2007 again

Back on the bus to Kankavali, next to me is a babe of a Marwari with a cute little daughter and in front of me is another couple {Marwari again}.
Two seats ahead on the cushy seats rested my fantasy (two young hot firang chicks in skirts). Barney Stinson and his devilishly funny ideas floated in my head, but God you need to be Barney to do that.

Anyways the couple two seats ahead started getting way too close for my comfort. Fondling, smooching like hell and if it was a closed compartment, I would have witnessed some really gross acts in public. My conservative grandma sat with eyes closed and with really irritated look on her wizened face.

At night 12.00 pm the stupid movie finally got over. It’s sick the kind of bullshit they play in the buses. I was wondering what the firangs might be thinking, I mean crappy movies like these reflect poorly on our country’s cinema.

The bus stopped at some restaurant and we grabbed a quick bite. Then once the bus started again I turned on the ipod. They turned off the bus lights and music streamed in my ears. Highway star, open road, and other on the road kind of songs played on… Bliss …metallica, coldplay , aerosmith, my entire rock collection…consequently I didn’t sleep a wink. After a long time I saw the dawn break in … an amazing feeling it is!

As a kid I always remember traveling to my native place at night in a bus. That feeling returned as a surge of emotion in me. Ah! Nostalgia it can kill!

18th May,2007

It all started sometime ago, a crazy itch in my brain somewhere; something was poking me on the inside. Something was asking me to break away from the routine and do something interesting and exciting. It was there in my head somewhere I can’t put a finger to it and say “here” but I could feel it.Maybe it was the whole feeling of wanting to escape, to run away from all the stress and all the familiar people and places.
My mom suggested I go off to my native place.I am never really too enthused by the idea of going off to my native place-Kankavali. But here was I at my cousin’s place off to Kankavali in a Volvo with my grandma and my cousin Abhay. But let’s rewind a little.
How did I get to Borivali? Only after a great amount of drama at home. Firstly Abhay booked tickets for a Volvo {1000/- bucks total rip off}. And I wasn’t prepared for shelling that kind of money. Neither was my mom. So after a lecture that lasted hours, I packed my bags and was off with already a 1000/- bucks deficit.
Then somewhere in the middle of the road in the S. T. bus going to Borivali I realized I had forgotten the keys of the bag that was locked with my wallet and everything. With time running away fast, I asked that oh- so- helpful friend Sanket to come to my aid. He was kind enough to come to go to my place and get the keys. So after much heroic adventure I reached Borivali.